Crochet Increases and Decreases Explained: The Beginner's Guide to Amigurumi Shaping

If you've ever wondered how a flat piece of yarn becomes a perfectly round head, a plump body, or a shapely leg on a crochet stuffed animal, the answer is two fundamental techniques: increases and decreases. These are not complicated — an increase is simply crocheting two stitches in one, and a decrease is crocheting two stitches together as one — but understanding exactly how and when to use them is the key to making amigurumi that looks polished and professional.

This guide will take you through every aspect of increases and decreases for amigurumi, from the mechanics of each stitch to the underlying math that makes a sphere, and all the common mistakes beginners make along the way. By the end, you'll understand not just how to follow a pattern that uses these stitches, but why the pattern is written the way it is — which means you'll be able to troubleshoot problems and eventually modify or design your own shapes.

Why Increases and Decreases Matter in Amigurumi

Amigurumi is crocheted in a continuous spiral round — every piece starts from a central point (typically a magic ring) and expands outward. To create a 3D shape rather than a flat disc, you need to control the rate at which the piece grows (increases) and then shrinks (decreases).

Here's the core principle: adding stitches makes the piece grow larger in circumference; removing stitches makes it curve inward and close up. A classic amigurumi sphere — the shape used for most heads and many bodies — is made by working a precise sequence of increases until the sphere reaches its widest point, then working the same sequence in reverse with decreases to close it back up.

Every single amigurumi shape — round heads, oval bodies, curved ears, tapered legs, flat discs — is created by varying the placement and frequency of increases and decreases. Once you truly understand these two stitches, the logic of every amigurumi pattern you ever read will click into place.

The Standard Crochet Increase (inc)

What It Is

A crochet increase, usually abbreviated as inc in amigurumi patterns, means working two single crochet stitches into the same stitch. This adds one stitch to your total count, which causes the fabric to fan outward and grow in circumference.

How to Work an Increase

1. Insert your hook into the next stitch as normal.
2. Complete a single crochet stitch (yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops).
3. Without moving to the next stitch, insert your hook into the same stitch again.
4. Complete a second single crochet in that same stitch.

You now have 2 stitches where there was 1. That's an increase.

What It Looks Like

If you look at the top of the increase from above, you'll see two V shapes sitting side by side in the space where there was only one. Increases are visible as slightly splayed or fan-like stitches — once you know what you're looking for, you can spot them easily when counting back through your rounds.

When Patterns Say "Inc"

Different patterns write increases in slightly different ways:

• "Inc in next st" — work 2 sc in that stitch
• "2 sc in next st" — same thing, written out in full
• "*sc 2, inc* repeat 6 times" — work 2 regular sc, then an increase, repeated 6 times around the round

All of these mean the same thing: two single crochets in one stitch.

The Crochet Decrease: Two Methods

A decrease removes one stitch from the total count, causing the fabric to pull inward and curve. There are two methods commonly used in amigurumi: the standard sc2tog (single crochet two together) and the preferred invisible decrease. Both produce a decrease, but the invisible method is strongly recommended for amigurumi because it creates a much neater result on the fabric's right side.

Method 1: Standard Decrease (sc2tog)

This is sometimes called a "single crochet two together" decrease.

1. Insert your hook into the next stitch.
2. Yarn over and pull through — you now have 2 loops on your hook.
3. Insert your hook into the following stitch (the stitch after that).
4. Yarn over and pull through — you now have 3 loops on your hook.
5. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops at once.

You've worked 2 stitches but produced 1. That's a decrease. The standard sc2tog inserts through the full stitch (both loops) of each stitch, which works but can leave a slightly bumpy or raised appearance on the right side of the fabric.

Method 2: The Invisible Decrease (Recommended)

The invisible decrease, sometimes abbreviated as invdec or simply dec in amigurumi-specific patterns, is worked through the front loops only of two consecutive stitches. This is the method most amigurumi designers use because it lies flat against the fabric and is barely noticeable on the finished surface.

1. Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next stitch.
2. Without yarning over yet, also insert your hook through the front loop only of the stitch after that.
3. You now have 3 loops on your hook (the 2 front loops plus your working loop).
4. Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops (the two front loops).
5. Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops.

This produces a flat, almost invisible join. When looking at the finished piece, you'll struggle to find where the decreases are — that's exactly what you want.

The Math Behind Amigurumi Spheres

Understanding the math of amigurumi shaping is genuinely useful — not because you need to do complex calculations, but because once you see the pattern, you'll understand every amigurumi pattern you ever encounter.

The classic amigurumi sphere is built on a rule: each increase round adds 6 stitches (by placing 1 increase every Nth stitch, where N increases by 1 each round). Here's how the standard sphere sequence works:

Notice the pattern: the number of regular sc stitches before each increase increases by 1 every round (0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5...), while the stitch count increases by exactly 6 each time (6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42). The more increase rounds you add, the larger the sphere's diameter.

After the increase rounds, you typically work several straight rounds (no increases or decreases) to create the sphere's "equator" — the widest middle section. Then you mirror the increases exactly with decreases:

• *sc 5, dec* × 6 → 36 sts
• *sc 4, dec* × 6 → 30 sts
• *sc 3, dec* × 6 → 24 sts
• *sc 2, dec* × 6 → 18 sts
• *sc 1, dec* × 6 → 12 sts
• dec × 6 → 6 sts
• Close the final 6 stitches

This symmetrical increase-straight-decrease structure produces a nearly perfect sphere every time. You'll find this exact formula in the head of virtually every amigurumi pattern ever written, regardless of the character or designer.

How Changing Increase Placement Creates Different Shapes

The sphere is just one of many shapes you can create by varying the increase and decrease patterns. Understanding a few key variations opens up a world of amigurumi design possibilities.

Flat Disc

A flat disc is made by continuing the increase pattern without any straight rounds in between — the piece continues to grow outward without curving up. Every round is an increase round following the standard formula (+6 per round). Flat discs are used for ears, hats, and decorative elements.

Oval or Egg Shape

An oval starts with a chain of several stitches instead of a magic ring, then works single crochets along both sides of the chain, creating an elongated base. Increases are placed at the ends rather than evenly around. Ovals are commonly used for snouts and some body shapes.

Cylinder

A cylinder is started as a small sphere opening (magic ring + 6 inc rounds), then worked straight (no increases or decreases) for many rounds. Cylinders are used for legs, arms, and tails. The ratio of increase rounds to straight rounds determines how stubby or elongated the cylinder becomes.

Teardrop / Pear Shape

A teardrop shape increases more slowly at first (fewer increases per round) and then faster. This creates a shape narrower at one end and wider at the other — useful for some animal bodies or bird beaks.

Torus (Donut Shape)

A torus is worked in rounds that increase and then decrease on opposite sides, creating a ring rather than a closed ball. Less common in basic amigurumi but used for things like rings, life preservers, and some decorative elements.

The Relationship Between Stitch Count and Size

One practical benefit of understanding the math is knowing how to scale amigurumi up or down. The formula is straightforward:

• Adding one more increase round (e.g., stopping at 42 sts instead of 36 sts at the equator) makes the sphere about 15–20% larger in diameter.
• Removing one increase round makes it about 15–20% smaller.
• Adding more straight rounds at the equator makes the shape taller without changing its width — turning a sphere into more of an egg or barrel shape.

For a bear's head that should be slightly larger than its body, you might work the head to 42 stitches and the body to 36, keeping the same number of straight rounds. For a very round head, keep equal numbers of increase and decrease rounds. For a slightly flattened head, reduce the straight section at the equator.

Common Mistakes with Increases and Decreases (And How to Fix Them)

Miscounting Your Stitches

This is the single most common amigurumi mistake. If you work one too many or too few increases in a round, the stitch count is off for every single subsequent round, and the shape will look subtly wrong — slightly lopsided, not closing evenly, or not matching the finished size in the pattern.

Fix: Count your stitches at the end of every single round, especially increase and decrease rounds. Use a stitch counter app on your phone, a physical clicker counter, or make a tally mark in a notebook. If you're off, frog (undo) back to the beginning of the last round and redo it. Catching a mistake one round back is infinitely easier than catching it five rounds later.

Confusing the Standard Decrease with the Invisible Decrease

Many beginners follow the pattern abbreviation "dec" and use the standard sc2tog method, not realizing the pattern was written with the invisible decrease in mind. The result is visible bumps on the exterior of the piece where the decreases are.

Fix: Always default to the invisible decrease (front loops only) for amigurumi unless the pattern specifically calls for sc2tog. The invisible method is superior for the outer surface of all closed amigurumi pieces.

Working Increases or Decreases Out of Order

The pattern *sc 2, inc* × 6 means: sc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, then increase in the next stitch — and repeat that 3-stitch sequence 6 times. Some beginners misread this as making 2 increases in a row and then 2 single crochets, which produces entirely different shaping.

Fix: Read the repeat sequence as a group and work through it step by step. It helps to count quietly as you go: "one, two, increase, one, two, increase..." until you've completed all 6 repeats.

Stuffing Before Decreasing

Beginners sometimes wait until the very end to stuff their piece, then discover the opening is too small to insert enough fiberfill. The result is an under-stuffed amigurumi that looks floppy and deflated.

Fix: Begin adding stuffing when the opening is still about 2–3 cm across — usually after the first 2 or 3 decrease rounds. Continue adding small pinches of fiberfill as you decrease, until the piece is firmly stuffed before the last 6–12 stitches close.

The Hole at the Center Won't Close

At the end of the final round, you should have about 6 remaining stitches. Some beginners try to slip stitch them closed, which leaves a slight gap. Others cut the yarn too short and can't thread it onto a needle.

Fix: Leave a tail of at least 20 cm (8 inches). Thread it onto a tapestry needle, then pass through the front loop of each remaining stitch all the way around. Pull the tail tightly to cinch the hole completely closed, like a drawstring bag. Weave the tail end inside the piece and trim.

Practical Exercises for Mastering Increases and Decreases

The fastest way to get comfortable with these stitches is deliberate practice. Here are three exercises in increasing complexity:

Exercise 1: The Practice Sphere

Follow the standard 6-round increase, 4-round straight, 6-round decrease sequence but do NOT stuff or close it. When finished, you'll have a flat piece with a hole on each end. Spread it out and examine your stitches. Can you identify every increase? Every decrease? Do the increase rounds look even? Do the decrease rounds look tidy? Repeat this exercise 2–3 times until the stitches look clean and consistent.

Exercise 2: Make a Keychain Ball

Work the full sphere, stuff it, and close it. Attach a jump ring through the top and you have a small amigurumi ornament. Making 5 or 10 of these small balls — each takes about 20–30 minutes — is the single fastest way to build muscle memory for the increase/decrease sequence.

Exercise 3: Try Different Sizes

Work the sphere to different maximum stitch counts: 24, 30, 36, 42, 48. Compare the resulting sizes. You'll quickly develop an intuitive sense for how the stitch count relates to the finished diameter — a skill that will serve you every time you want to adjust a pattern.

Reading Pattern Shorthand for Increases and Decreases

Different designers and countries use different abbreviations and notation styles. Here's a quick reference for the most common ways increases and decreases appear in patterns:

When a pattern says just "dec" without further specification, use the invisible decrease — it's the amigurumi standard. Only use sc2tog when the pattern specifically calls for it.

Increases and Decreases Beyond the Basic Sphere

Once you're comfortable with increases and decreases for spheres, you can apply the same principles to more complex shapes:

Asymmetrical Shapes

Some amigurumi pieces are wider on one side than the other — for example, a sitting cat body that's wider at the bottom and narrower at the top. These use increases concentrated on one side of the piece rather than evenly distributed. The principle is the same: more increases on one side = that side grows faster.

Surface Shaping (3D Texture)

Bobble stitches, popcorn stitches, and post stitches can all be combined with increases to create textured 3D surfaces on amigurumi — for example, a hedgehog's spines or a dinosaur's bumps. These are intermediate to advanced techniques but built entirely on the same increase logic.

Jointed Limbs

Some amigurumi use disk-jointing — the limbs are attached with plastic joints that allow them to move. The discs are flat circles made with increases only (no straight section, no decreasing back). Each joint disc is typically worked to 18 or 24 stitches.

Choosing the Right Kit for Practicing Increases and Decreases

The best way to practice increases and decreases is to make actual amigurumi rather than test swatches. A structured kit gives you the right materials, the right pattern, and the right guidance to build skills quickly without frustration.

Our Beginner Crochet Kit collection includes kits specifically designed for first-time amigurumi makers — the patterns are clearly written with stitch-by-stitch round counts, so you always know your target stitch count and can check yourself every few rounds. Each kit includes premium yarn pre-wound to the right amount, the correct hook size, and all finishing supplies.

Once you've worked through one or two beginner kits and feel comfortable with increases and decreases, our Intermediate Crochet Kits introduce more complex shapes, multi-piece assemblies, and surface embellishment — all built on the same fundamental shaping techniques you'll master here.

Frequently Asked Questions About Crochet Increases and Decreases

What is a crochet increase?

A crochet increase (abbreviated "inc" in amigurumi patterns) means working 2 single crochet stitches into the same stitch. This adds 1 stitch to your total count and causes the fabric to grow outward in circumference. Increases are what make flat crochet expand into larger shapes and are essential for shaping 3D amigurumi pieces.

What is the invisible decrease in crochet?

The invisible decrease (invdec or dec in amigurumi patterns) is a technique where you insert your hook through the front loops only of the next 2 stitches, then complete a single crochet through all loops. This joins 2 stitches into 1 with minimal visual distortion on the right side of the fabric — unlike the standard sc2tog, which can leave bumps. It is the preferred decrease method for amigurumi.

How many increases does each amigurumi round add?

Standard amigurumi shaping adds exactly 6 stitches per increase round. This is why the classic amigurumi stitch sequence progresses as 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42 — each round adds 6 stitches. The 6 is derived from the 6 single crochets in the starting magic ring; each one gets an increase in round 2, and the pattern spreads those 6 increases out further each subsequent round.

What does sc2tog mean?

Sc2tog stands for "single crochet 2 together." It means inserting your hook into the next stitch, pulling through (2 loops on hook), then inserting into the following stitch, pulling through (3 loops on hook), then completing the stitch through all 3 loops. This converts 2 stitches into 1 — a decrease. In amigurumi, the invisible decrease (front loops only) is usually preferred over sc2tog because it looks neater on the finished surface.

Why does my amigurumi sphere look pointy instead of round?

A pointy sphere usually means you worked too few increase rounds before starting the straight section (equator). The shape doesn't have enough circumference to curve smoothly, so it looks more like a cone or football. Try adding 1–2 more increase rounds (working the sequence one step further) and ensure you have at least 3–5 straight rounds at the maximum stitch count before beginning to decrease.

How do I know when to start decreasing?

Start decreasing when the piece is at its widest point — its equator. In a pattern, this is typically after the final increase round and after all the straight rounds. A well-shaped sphere will have equal numbers of increase rounds and decrease rounds. If a pattern says to work 7 increase rounds, you should also have 7 decrease rounds. The straight section in between determines the overall height of the piece.

My stitch count is off — what do I do?

First, count carefully from the beginning of the last round. If you find the error within the last 1–2 rounds, frog (pull out) just those rounds and redo them. If you're off by 1–2 stitches but the shape looks fine visually, you can sometimes compensate in the following round by adding or removing one stitch — but count carefully afterward to confirm you're back on track. If the stitch count is off by more than 2–3 in an increase or decrease round, it's almost always better to frog back and redo the round than to try to compensate forward.

Can I use increases and decreases to make a flat amigurumi instead of a stuffed one?

Yes — flat amigurumi (sometimes called amigurumi plushies or flat crochet dolls) are made by crocheting two matching flat pieces and then joining them together (often with a row of single crochets around the edge) while stuffing lightly. Each flat piece is worked using only increases (creating a flat disc or oval) with no decreases and no 3D closing. Flat amigurumi is slightly easier for absolute beginners because you only need to master increases, not the full increase-and-decrease shaping sequence.

Summary: Your Increases and Decreases Cheat Sheet

• Increase (inc): 2 sc in the same stitch → adds 1 stitch → fabric grows outward
• Standard decrease (sc2tog): Insert through both loops of 2 consecutive stitches → 2 sts become 1 → fabric pulls inward
• Invisible decrease (inv dec / dec): Insert through front loops only of 2 consecutive stitches → 2 sts become 1 → nearly invisible on finished surface — use this for amigurumi
• Each standard increase round adds 6 stitches (following the formula: *sc N, inc* × 6)
• Each standard decrease round removes 6 stitches (following the formula: *sc N, dec* × 6)
• A sphere = increase rounds + straight rounds + decrease rounds in a symmetrical arrangement
• Always count your stitches at the end of every round — especially increase and decrease rounds
• Use a stitch marker to track where each round begins

Mastering increases and decreases is the single biggest leap you'll make as a beginner amigurumi crocheter. Once these two stitches become second nature, every pattern you encounter will feel more readable, every shape will make more intuitive sense, and you'll start to see the underlying geometry in every stuffed animal you encounter. Give yourself permission to practice — make a few practice spheres, count carefully, and trust the process. You've got this.

Ready to put your new skills to work? Browse our Beginner Crochet Kit collection for complete starter kits that walk you through increases and decreases on your very first project — everything you need is included, right down to the stitch markers.